By Yuko Enomoto

If the U.S. represents the cult of the physical body, then Japan worships the cult of the skin. Just as toned arms and firm abs are the gold standard of the day in America’s pursuit of physical perfection, so is the desire for flawless skin in Japan’s beauty ideal. No other country comes close to Japan’s obsession with and consumption of skin-care products. Japan boasts the world’s largest skin-care market per capita, and Japanese women use and spend more on skin-care products than any other woman in the world.
It is said that the average Japanese woman uses up to seven skin-care products several days a week and just as many makeup products. Although the skin-care market continues to decline each year with the slumping economy and shrinking birthrates, Japanese spending on anti-aging products is bucking that trend. And the drop in total spending is not an indication of decreasing interest in skin care; it simply means consumers are turning to less expensive products.
Outside of Japan, the rest of Asia has shown deep interest in skin-care products. But the obsession with skin care fades in intensity in the West.
Here in Washington, a trip to the Uwajimaya supermarket in the International District or Bellevue reveals Japanese loyalty toward their national brands. Rows of shelves in a small space are dedicated to Japanese cleansers, exfoliants, lotions and creams. Many of my Japanese friends say products from brands like Kose or Shiseido feel right for their skin, even though those brands are not vastly different from their European and American counterparts.
The considerations that go into a woman’s skin-care purchase can be complicated; it is part practical and part aspirational. “Buying a Shiseido product is sometimes a status symbol,” especially among Japanese and other Asian women, explains Harumi Branch, an esthetician who runs the Savvy Cosmetics store inside the Uwajimaya supermarket. “And those who are looking for the ultimate (in skin care) arrive at Cle de Peau BEAUTE,” a high-end Shiseido line.
Whatever the preference ­— high-end or budget skin care — conscientious Japanese women generally follow a standard regimen that begins with makeup removal, followed by cleansing, application of softener, then lotion and/or cream if they have mature or drier skin. And while many products within that routine can be found at drugstores or department stores here, women are hard-pressed to find softeners by leading European or American brands. Japanese softeners, marketed here sometimes as lotions or astringents, are like a cross between a toner and a moisturizer and are an indispensable part of the process for their role in helping to absorb lotions or creams that follow.
Many American women may balk at this laborious regimen. (On a related note, not long ago, I visited a Shu Uemura counter to buy an eyebrow pencil that required manual sharpening. The beautician simply told me that Shu Uemura in America stopped selling them because, “American women aren’t going to sharpen their eyebrow pencil.”) But many women outside of Japan recognize the benefit of investing time (and money) in their skin care. Still, when it comes to achieving beautiful, heathly skin, the old adage still applies. “You still need a healthy diet, healthy lifestyle and adequate sleep,” said Yoko Kasahara of Sanders Perry, a Vancouver-based line of natural skin care. “These are all necessities for good skin.”

Starting the Golden 4 Regimen !!

The Golden 4 Regimen has become the gold standard for skin care in Japan. It can be time-consuming. The regimen consists of two-step cleansing, hydrating and softening, enriching and then protecting. We have selected and reviewed some products under each category. Challenge yourself and start your own Golden 4 Regimen this fall.

1. Two-step cleansing

Removing makeup

	SHISEIDO ELIXIR Superieur — Makeup Cleansing Oil Available  at Uwajimaya & Savvy Cosmetics This hard-working oil removes the most stubborn, difficult-to-remove makeup for a thorough cleansing experience that reaches deep into the pores. The oil dissolves quickly into a milky texture under lukewarm water for a clean yet soft finish. Cleansing oils are not a common sight on US shelves, but they are  ubiquitous in Japan.
	KOSE — Deep Cleansing Oil 230 ml Available  at Uwajimaya This deeply satisfying cleansing oil is tough enough to remove waterproof makeup but gentle enough for everyday use without leaving the face slick. It contains rice bran oil and orange oil, which lends this cleanser its citrusy fragrance. Apply a pump or two and gently massage until it mixes well with makeup, then rinse thoroughly in cold or lukewarm water.
	KRACIE — Moistage Washable Cold Cream Available at Uwajimaya If you have sensitive skin or simply feel that the cleansing oils are a little too harsh for you, this cold cream makeup remover may be the solution. It rinses off easily with a little water.

Foam cleaning

KRACIE — Purenavi Foaming Face Cleansing Foam Available  at Uwajimaya An internal pump whips up the cream into a soft foam for a deep cleanse. A fun way to shave a few seconds from your morning ritual.

Deep Clean Once a Week !!

Not so long ago, you had to pay a huge amount of money and endure pain to achieve baby soft skin. Today, there's Detclear Bright and Elixir Superieur. Detclear contains fruit-derived alpha-hydroxy acid, which removes dead skin cells, discoloration and sebum, targets blackheads and boosts the skin's turnover. Elixir Superieur also works at a deep level, removing excess skin cells and stimulating turnover to help achieve buttery soft skin and a radiant complexion. Detclear is also great for sloughing off rough areas of the feet and elbows. Use once or twice a week on clean, dry skin for Detclear. Use on clean, moistened skin for Elixir.

2. Hydrate & soften

	SHISEIDO ELIXIR Superieur — Lifting CE Lotion II Available at Uwajimaya & Savvy Cosmetics The Japanese can’t get enough of these “lotions” that actually work more like softeners. It is the one BIG thing Japanese women living in the U.S. covet more than anything else in their skin-care arsenal. Here is a good standard lotion by Shiseido that does the trick and more. It primes your skin so that the moisturizer or cream that follows gets absorbed into the skin for better hydration.
	CLE DE PEAU BEAUTE — Refreshing Balancing Lotion Available  at Savvy Cosmetics A balancing lotion for normal to oily skin that immediately replenishes moisture throughout skin and achieves softness and smoothness with regular daily use. Cle de Peau BEAUTE is a most prestigious line from Shiseido for matured skin.
	B&C LABORATORIES — Happy Seven Soybean 400 ml Available at Uwajimaya This syrupy concoction is a perfect lotion for the colder and drier months of the year. Combine it with a light lotion for oily skin or a heavier cream for dry skin. In the summer, it may serve as an astringent/lotion hybrid. With a very light fragrance, this product derives its name from its seven ingredients: amino acid, sterol, isoflavone, ceramide, lecithin, linoleic acid and minerals — most of which are extracted from soybeans.
	KRACIE HADABISEI — Deep Moist Facial Lotion Available at Uwajimaya Facial lotion that gets absorbed into skin without that greasy feeling. Contains hyaluronic acid, collagen, royal jelly and Chardonnay extract. Moisturizes skin to the core, fast and effectively.

Softner vs. Toner

A softener is part of the moisturizing process, whereas a toner is part of the cleansing process. Most Japanese cosmetic brands have developed softeners in each skin-care line to soften, rehydrate and enhance the effectiveness of a moisturizer.

3. Enrich

	CLE DE PEAU BEAUTE — Refreshing Nourishing Emulsion Available at Savvy Cosmetics For night-time use after the refreshing balancing lotion, the emulsion is designed to help the skin relax and recover from the day’s exposure to environmental stress. It also helps the skin’s natural cell renewal and counteracts wrinkles caused by dryness and loss of elasticity.
	CLE DE PEAU BEAUTE — Refreshing Protective Emulsion Available at Savvy Cosmetics Absorbs quickly to provide continuous hydration through the day without overloading the skin. It also protects against environmental damage and UV rays while promoting a smooth, even texture, making it an ideal base for foundation.
	SHISEIDO ELIXIR Superieur — Pore Care Essence Available at Uwajimaya & Savvy Cosmetics Intensively targets visibly enlarged pores in adults. Provides firmness to skin, especially around pores, for a dewy smoothness. Apply in the morning after moisturizer and at night as the last step of your skin-care routine.
	KRACIE HADABISEI — Deep Moist Facial Pack Essence Available at Uwajimaya Apply before going to sleep. This essence works hard overnight to give you moist, firm and elastic skin the next morning. Locks beauty essences in the skin. Contains beauty GABA, collagen and royal jelly to moisturize skin, hyaluronic acid to maintain moisture and natural glucosamine to give skin elasticity.

Special Treatment Once a Week

Beauticians often recommend special facial care once a week in addition to your regular daily regimen. Face masks are one of the recommended steps. Usually applied after a softener (or in place of a softener) but before lotion or cream, these masks by Kracie leave the skin feeling like it just came out of a deep, relaxing slumber. One is steeped in fruit acids to soften the outer layers of the skin, and hyaluronic acid and royal jelly to moisturize. The other targets tired and dull skin with the unique combination of coenzyme Q10, glycerine, soy extract and fruit acids.

4. Protect

Night cream

SHISEIDO BENEFIANCE — NutriPerfect Night Cream Available at Uwajimaya & Savvy Cosmetics The final step in your skin-care regimen is to repair and protect your skin overnight. This luxurious cream was formulated for mature skin that’s losing density and elasticity. Soothing and moisturizing, this rich concoction helps restore vibrancy to the skin without feeling too heavy while you sleep. The Benefiance line is perfect for mature and drier skin.

KRACIE — Essence Cream Super Moist Available at Uwajimaya Contains three quality moisturizers: herbal collagen, squalin and royal jelly. This cream is rich in moisture, leaving your skin nourished and saturated.

Day cream with UV care

SHISEIDO BENEFIANCE — NutriPerfect Day Cream Available at Uwajimaya & Savvy Cosmetics Try the NutriPerfect Day Cream at the end of your skin-care regimen to begin your day. Even under cloudy skies, UV rays can reach your skin. Stay protected this season with a day cream that nourishes and works hard to shield your skin from damaging elements.