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Sebastian Masuda, founder of the ultracool Harajuku clothing and accessories shop 6%DOKIDOKI, chatted with Ibuki via email about Tokyo street fashion, his recent world tour and the kawaii subculture that is growing among young people around the globe. Yuko Enomoto translated the conversation.
Photos © 6%DOKIDOKI, Masuda Sebastian 
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| | Sebastian Masuda, founder of the Harajuku clothing and accessories shop 6%DOKIDOKI. | The 6% DOKIDOKI store in Harajuku is a rainbow of colors and kawaii fashions. Harajuku is the epicenter of the kawaii subculture and the home to the Gothic Lolita look as well as other edgy youthful fashion trends. |
Q: What can you tell us about the opening of 6%DOKIDOKI?
A. I had been active in theater and the contemporary art world, but I wanted something that lasted longer than the one-off performances and exhibitions. I thought about a space that could continue that form of expression every day, and so I went with a shop.
Q. What’s the meaning of the name, “6%DOKIDOKI.” Why 6%?
A. I really wanted a Japanese name for the store. “Dokidoki” is onomatopoeic and kawaii, and it also has the meaning that the shop has exciting things inside. For “chotto,” or “a little,” I used “6%.” In other words, it means that we’re bringing you a life with a little more excitement than usual.
Q. What sort of process do you use to design 6%DOKIDOKI products? What things give you inspiration for your design?
A. The colors of the movies and toys of my childhood in the 1980s, the richly colored sweets packages and candy stores overseas ... I think it’s the original scenery.
Q. You just finished a world tour. How did it go? What sort of things happened on the tour?
A. In every city, it seemed that people were excited to see us. A group of fans from L.A. got a party bus and drove all the way to San Francisco to see us. I was really glad to see that kind of emotion. I felt that people respected each other regardless of nationality. And I felt that there is a movement beginning to take place across the globe.
Q. You described on your blog how you participated in a talk called “Dai Ketsuron” (The Big Conclusion) on the last day of your tour in San Francisco. It was held at Soto Zen International. I’m interested in how the Zen boom of the 1970s connects to the kawaii boom of today. How did the talk go and what was the response?
A. The U.S. in the 1960s and 70s saw a lot of people strive for material riches and become careless with their spirituality. In that setting, the hippies brought the spiritually minded practice of Zen over from the Orient. Today’s America was wrapped up in the money game of capitalism until values plummeted in the wake of the Lehman Shock. People have realized that happiness can’t be bought with money alone. Now we find value in things ourselves, and some people have found it on the little planet of Kawaii.
The talk show we did on the spot where the hippy movement started featured thoughts on the theme of the tour, which was “communication.” The young generation takes for granted media like the Web or cellphones, which easily connect us. They’ve already noticed that this sort of communication is not enough, and they’re requesting more analog-type communication like the places we created for communication on this tour.
Q. Can you tell us your plans for development outside of Japan? Is there a chance you’ll sell wholesale to U.S. retailers? Or perhaps open your own store here?
A. I think it would be difficult to try to do these expressive events and also develop business at the same time. The reality is I only have the strength to handle the events. But of course, these things are all about timing, so if the right business partner appeared, I could see developing the business.
Q. What does “kawaii” mean to you?
A. Kawaii is about creating your own space where your outlook on the world reigns and you can give shape to your own happiness. The Japanese all have this sensibility.
Q. In Japan there are so many kawaii goods and brands. Where does 6%DOKIDOKI fit in the kawaii landscape? What defines 6%DOKIDOKI style?
A. We didn’t start from fashion, so we can’t really compare ourselves to the others. The style of 6%DOKIDOKI has changed along with the neighborhood of Harajuku ever since we opened in 1995. It’s a style that has grown with the kids who used to hang out there in those days. It’s not just about dressing up. It’s about having a colorful impact, being fashionable and spiritual. Those are the defining characteristics.
Q. Who is your target customer?
A. The people gathering at our shop tend to be men and women between the ages of 18 and 23.
Q. What are the fall and winter trends and themes for you this year?
A. I don’t pay much attention to trends. I didn’t start 6%DOKIDOKI to become a fashion brand. We just want to use colorful furs and make interesting products.
Q. Why are so many youth flocking to kawaii styles and 6%DOKIDOKI?
A. Just like the punk and hippy movements, the anarchism young people need these days comes from the kawaii movement, or happy feelings and a colorful world view. That colorful image was repeated again and again in the late 1990s in Harajuku. Isn’t it safe to say that people like 6%DOKIDOKI because it is one of the originators and representatives of this movement?
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Information about 6%DOKIDOKI:
Official web site: http://www.dokidoki6.com
Email:
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