By Steve Corless

Every pleasure trip to Japan should include time in Kyoto, Japan’s capital city from 794 to 1868.

Kyoto’s importance as a cultural center helped spare the city from wartime bombing, making it one of the few large cities in the country with many historic structures remaining. The city and its environs boast 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites. But Kyoto is also a modern, bustling city. The historical, cultural and architectural treasures here are surrounded by, and sometimes in competition with, the busy city. The best way to experience Kyoto’s cultural treasures is to avoid the crowds and modern distractions as much as possible.

Agreat way to see some of the city’s gardens and historic buildings without the daytime crowds is to visit during one of the “light up” illumination events. Many of the city’s castles, temples, shrines and gardens host seasonal illumination events starting at 6:00 pm and running until as late as 10:00 at night. The gardens and architecture seem to have a magical aura, and visitors tend to speak quietly and stroll slowly through the illuminated grounds. Check with your hotel concierge or tourist office upon arrival in Kyoto to learn about “light up”events during your time in the city.

Another activity best done in the evening is a stroll through the Gion district. This neighborhood has two hanamachi geiko communities (geisha are referred to as geiko in Kyoto) and numerous ochaya teahouses. A lucky visitor should have several opportunities to see the geiko or maiko apprentice geisha walking between teahouse engagements in the neighborhood.

For those seeking a full-immersion Zen experience, what could be better than an overnight stay in a Buddhist monastery? Mt. Koya is home to more than 120 temples, monasteries and the headquarters of the Shingon school of Japanese Buddhism. Mt. Koya, or Koyasan, is a couple of hours from Kyoto but worth the trip. Temple lodging ranges from the luxury level (hot springs and kaiseki dinner) to fairly spartan. Whatever your budget, an overnight stay in a temple is sure to be a welcome escape from the city and a memorable introduction to an important element of Japan’s culture and history.

Kyoto has many Western-style hotels that cater to both foreign and domestic travelers, including a Westin and the popular Hyatt Regency. For a traditional Kyoto ryokan inn experience, one night in the historic Hiiragiya ryokan offers an unparalleled aesthetic and culinary experience. For those planning on spending an extended period in the city, consider staying in a traditional Kyoto machiya wood-frame townhouse in the heart of the city.

Steve Corless is an independent travel consultant based in Seattle. Steve spent 15 years in Japan working in sales and marketing and as a US foreign service officer in Tokyo and Osaka.

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